The First Two weeks

I arrived in Hanoi on a cold and cloudy day. I had not expected their winter to be so cold on this auspicious day. For the previous two weeks I had been as excited as a little boy, I was beside myself with joy and happiness as I walked through the terminal to clear all the customs and immigration games.

Hanoi as ever is a welcoming sight, I begin to feel part of the scene as we make our way across the Choog Soung Bridge. The chaos of buses cars and "millions" of motorbikes surging across the Red River is an awesome experience, it terrifies me every time I go over the bridge. It is the thing that makes me feel "at home". It is a great feeling. The Hanoi 3B stands as usual, a warm embrace, a drink of juice and a hug from Nancy. It is almost enough to make a grown man cry.

My plan for the two weeks in Hanoi before Tet is about relaxation, chilling, a little bit of organising and sheer unadulterated decadence. As it turned out that is what it was like. I spent afternoons wondering round the Lake chatting to complete strangers about this and that. I spent evenings and nights in the Irish Wolfhound drinking and smoking to my hearts delight. The denizens of the bar are old familiars, I blend in like an old sock. I go to dinner with my dearest friends and share memories and stories of our lives. I reacquaint myself with my favourite massage parlour and have several Hot Rocks massages, so therapeutic.

One weekend I went with Le, Voung and Loung to Le's Parents place in Thai Nguyen. How many times can I say "this is like home to me"? I can't help the overwhelming feeling of warmth and love I feel from these people. A complete family, it makes me feel quite humble while I am there. I so enjoy the heady round of visiting this involves. Aunties, Uncles, Brothers, sisters, grandmothers and the venerated Matriarch. Everywhere we go there are nibblies. rice wine and great huge banquets I get a full briefing on the families status. It really is like being in the family.

Back in Hanoi I prepare for Tet. I get a bundle of small bills and several bundles of red envelopes for gifts. I have lunch with Quynh Anh in a lovely restaurant done up as if it were in the middle of the American War complete with helmets and radios on the walls. the crockery is all ex-war. We walk back to Ma May Street through the Tet market. It is spread over a number of streets and blocks in the old quarter, it sells everything Tet. Cherry and Plum trees covered in blossoms, Cumquat trees covered in fruit. Statues and toys in vivid colours, red and orange predominate. The place is pure anarchy, no one respects personal space, it is outrageously crowded, people push and shove and it is utter chaos. You move by being swept in a tidal movement up and down the street. Into this add the random motorbike. Someone with no consideration for anyone else cuts through this human gridlock with their bike running over toes and packages with distain. I am most impressed by the sweet sellers. They sit amongst huge baskets full to the brim with myriads of sweets of all sorts. It is a sugar freaks delight.

Tet approaches, Lan and Ewan are ready and we are off to Nam Dich. The Red River Delta.